200 amp wire size chart with ground full#
200 amp wire size chart with ground code#

They knew as they were there was a fault path, once they modified it all bets were off. Hence, Its kind of why they left the 3 wire as is grandfathered in. NUMBER 1 issue 10x the rest of all this and what old lazy inspectors used to look for is that there is the system bond and now days the concern that this separation from after this point be carried thru. All the botched installs which are obvious done by electricians.Ī lot of faulty installs done by amateurs in the sense of one thing. Look at the shoddy work posted here by real trades guys, ha. I seen some guys on trade forums been wiring for 10 yrs still got to look to see a 6 goes to a rod. Let some amateurs try to pick me wrong instead of being the forum police on this and a half a dozen others some of these guys show up on and straighten the world. I could have and maybe should have but inspectors almost always coment or ask if I am a spark or if I had help. I havnt failed a service entrance inspection in 25 years.

200 amp wire size chart with ground full#

It was 100 A and I used 6 to the only metal water pipe in the building.Ī couple guys here are full time trades, I am about 10%. I didn't mention the wire size, I asked here somewhere and was told to look it up, I didn't. I pulled a home permit on it, was there, the guy was super, we had very little conversation but I did ask if he would have accepted the 5 ft if I had clamped on top he said yes. Now the one I just did the house pipe was plastic but had incoming city metal, no meter.

200 amp wire size chart with ground code#

The code compliance will make some sense for a lot of people following this. At the point where my tool met the wire it could care less about a quote only that I fix it and take 10 minutes to work with a couple of my men towards a little understanding. I found a dryer the other day and corrected a faulty bond from 4 to 3 by a handyman type. A motor is grounded thru the supply wire and the parts within bonded by other mechanical connections. Again, grounding, grounded to and bonding are different. Ron asked whats the point, he asked why, he was looking at it becoming energizes thru grounding vs being grounded. got a simple 120/240 I got to the rods etc I was still having my understanding issues and A guru from another forum finally asked me a couple questions and its 10 ft away and I will do better than a lug but weld a clamp to the sucker he says, do not use rods, it don't get no better than 160 ft of casing, you don't want or need suplimental. When I service it and changed out the equipment. I had one 'hit' and yes you look at it, plain as day but again MR well installer 'doesn't understand' so he does it like he feels. I see one recently where they assume it was a hit to the well and not so, the well was a termination point should have been delivered elsewhere in the sense that, the pipe, the drop pipe and the motor were electrically grounded thru the supply wire but there should really have been another wire from the service to the casing. There is a difference here in grounding and grounding 'to'. If there is a steel well caseing it is the best you can get. Norcal, Ace, Speedy, Alfred and a couple others here know more about electricity than I ever will and that's a fact. It cant be hidden and a jumper from hot to cold isn't a bad idea and since you are on a well the meter requirements is irrlevent also.īTW and for whats its worth, Most of these guys are way ahead of me, I'm still eating dirt in this regard. I personally would like to see it on a trunk if you are using a branch system but you can have it on any accessable point. Probably a number 10 for circuits to 60A but it is as easy to use a 6 similar to any building bond which is that, 6 for 200 to the steel, any internal piping is the same unless its being used as an electrode, same for the 5 ft rule, irrelevant here.

In this case the wire not need be larger than the largest potential circuit connected to it. Should a wire chafe and wear against a water pipe it is grounded. In this case it is NOT and I can repeat it I spose but the reason for this bond is to protect it from becoming energized thru a fault (short circuit or leak) to the pipe from a wire or appliance electrically connected to it. The point is to have the metal water piping grounded. Ron, this was the point I was wanting to make, to get the idea across or what the point is or was.